Francisco Casado
It is not my purpose in this article to make a purely scientific description of this genus
of fish but to transmit my practical experience with them, trying to give guidance on
the day to day maintenance. One more of the many expert opinions that exist.
Nothobranchius is a Genus of the family Nothobranchiidae of the order
Cyprinodontformes that is popularly included in the confusing group of killifish that
includes such disparate genera as Aphyosemion, Epiplatiys, Rivulus and so on.
Currently, 96 accepted species are recognized in most cases, but in some there is no
unanimity. At the end, those that exist today are listed.
It is often said in some aquarium publications or by some individuals that they are
easy fish and indeed some species can be kept in isolation without problems due to
their short life span and wide range of water values, but it is quite another thing to
dedicate yourself to Nothobranchius, breeding them and keeping them for several
generations,it is, more than difficult, very meticulous with the need to spend a lot of
time on them and an almost constant vigilance, as an example, in only one day, due
to a sudden water pollution as the most common cause, a small aquarium with 30 fry
can fail. Apart from the labelling of the egg bags, Oodinium (as we will see later on)...
definitely not the fish recommended if the aim is only to observe some beautiful
aquatic animals.
The future of Nothobranchius, like so many other animal species, is quite
compromised by natural reasons, climate change or human action. In captivity or as
we commonly call it in the "hobby" as well as being logically related to their natural
biotopes, they have in the shorter term an uncertain future due to the ever stricter
rules for shipment of species or transfer.
Here in Spain, a so-called “animal welfare law” has recently been approved whose
scope to the world of fish and much more to the Nothobranchius is very uncertain
today but certainly unflattering.
The problem is that when it comes to a point as specific as in this case of the
Nothobranchius, the lack of knowledge of the legislators is very little or non-existent
and surely other aspects such as its conservation and possible reintroduction into
nature, for example, will not be taken into account. Surely if a species has become
extinct in its habitat, reintroducing it would have little success because it would
disappear again but keeping them in captivity would give the option to establish
reintroduction programmes in biotopes or similar areas as well as to protect those
areas where there are still species living as for example the great work of Nagy Bela
trying to protect together with the natives of the place the area where N.polli lives
very deteriorated by human activity.
After this introduction we go with my maintenance and breeding experence.
As I said, simply one more of the many that there may be with equal or greater
success, based on more than 35 years of experience with this type of fish.
The method depends on the time, space and other conditions that each person may
have. I would define mine as an “artisanal” method to maintain and raise
Nothobranchius, with multiple changes along the way. It is not a static installation, I
just want it to be as practical as possible within relativity.
As is almost always the case, I started keeping a mix of killifish mostly from the
Brithis Killifish Association (BKA) members. , but soon the NotobranchIus became
my exclusive dedication, fascinated by their life cycle, the origin of where they come
from..., it was a way to have a piece of deep Africa at home.It was a time of great
collecting trips starring Brian Watters, John Rosenstock, Ian Sainthouse among
others.
At first I tried to keep them by imitating their living conditions in nature, but the
Nothobranchius habitats are very dynamic and variable and when I began to
accumulate more species that became practically impossible, so I chose to keep
them in standard conditions except for a few species that have a notable difference
of life in their habitats.
The standard conditions referred to are water between neutral and slightly alkaline.
In my area the water is rather soft so I add a small amount of salt which also serves
to prevent Oodinium. The temperature between 21 and 28 degrees with a wide
variability due to the room where I have the fish that oscillates noticeably between
summer and winter.
Adding salt at a rate of one teaspoon per 8 liters from when they are one month old
because according to my experience it favors them and in a certain way prevents
oodinium, (one of the main enemies of the Nothobranchius to which I will dedicate
another section), also to compensate for the GH of the water, which in my area is
rather soft.
My Nothobranchius aquariums are rarely kept with the same species for a full month
because Aquarium changes are very frequent for various reasons such as the
separation between males and females during their growth, size disproportionate,
etc.
For this reason, filters almost never fulfill their biological function and I use them
rather as a mechanical filtration element. They are small sponge filters placed in a
corner with a weak flow rate. The water does not contain any additives, only the
aforementioned addition of salt.
LOGISTICS
My aquarium installation consists of approximately 40 aquariums ranging between
10 and 40 liters in addition to about five or six fifty-liter containers that I use for
spawning larger species. For the hatching of the fry and growth in the first days I
have one-litre and five-litre containers. The filters are sponge filters, small in size with
a low water flow rate and fed by an air pump which also supplies the brine shrimp,
hatching containers and smaller fry aquariums, these with minimal dripping.
The plants I use are only of the Microsorum genus, mainly the Pteropus species due
to its great resistance even withstanding some salinity of the water. They are not
planted in the substrate, I place them in small pots or simply loose in the aquarium.
The snails are of the Planorbis Genus, also very resistant. They are essential,
especially in the first days of life of the fry, creating infusoria and, above all,
contributing to the cleaning of the container by consuming possible brine shrimp from
the bottom.
I have not found that they eat the fry if they are in good condition despite being small
containers of 1 or 2 liters, but I nevertheless avoid having snails in the reproduction
aquariums because I have seen them eat eggs from the substrate.
WATER COMPOSITION
The water composition in Nothobranchius plays a relative role as long as it's not
extreme due to their adaptation to different values. The water in my area is rather
soft with a GH of five. It's probably not the best for Nothobranchius considering the
values in their natural habitats, but it can be compensated for by adding, as I
mentioned before, some salt and a pH booster because in aquariums without a
biological filter, the pH can quickly drop, which can be deadly, especially for fry and
very young fish if the values are below six approximately.
I use fifty-liter barrels to filter and let tap water rest, allowing chlorine to evaporate.
However, if there hasn't been enough time for this, I add some product to remove it.
In my experience, tap water, even without chlorine, slows down the growth of fry, and
it's much more advisable to use somewhat aged water. Alternatively, if I don't have
aged water available, it works very well to add a small amount of water resulting from
boiling peat.
FEEDING.
Feeding is an important point in the success of breeding Nothobranchius because of
their need to eat continuously due to their short life cycle and their very fast
metabolism (two hours after feeding, food is no longer perceptible in the stomach).
They are not fish to be fed "occasionally" and they need to be fed 2 or 3 times a day.
If this requirement is not met, the young fish will grow weak and will not reproduce
and the adults will do so with very poor results. A total fast for a week (for example
due to absence on vacation) is preferable to feeding them continuously but in a
deficit.
I feed adult fish mainly with live or frozen Bloodworms and Grindal and Enchytreid
worms.
There are hobbyists who have managed to make them eat dry food but I have
rejected that option because I have tried to give them a diet as similar as possible to
the place where they live in the wild and also because it requires a period of
adaptation which in my case due to the volume of the installation is not possible for
me due to the time it takes.
I supplement the diet occasionally with small flies of the genus Drosophila, generally
the wingless melanogaster of which I always keep some culture, small pieces of
boiled mussel which they devour, and even small pieces of raw beef heart without
excess because of the rapid water pollution they cause. Finally live artemia even if
they are adult fish just to keep them active and to give them something to catch…
I understand that amateurs who have few species can delve deeper into other types
of feeding, but in my case and due to the volume, I have to look for maximum
practicality and the shortest time possible and the fish are healthy and reproduce
well with this feeding method.
Special mention for the N. ocellatus which, due to its large size and voracity, differs
above all in quantity. The base in this case is mussels cooked in relatively large
pieces, raw beef heart, bloodworms, tubifex and adult Enchytreids. If I have
availability and why not say so, I also supply them with small fish without the
possibility of progression as would happen if they were wild.
BREEDING.
For reproduction, I preferably use 50-liter non-transparent plastic containers, placing
coconut fiber in a glass bowl as a substrate. Preferably, and if I have enough
availability, I place the fish to spawn in groups that for that size container would be
for example, five males and ten females, with the obvious exception of large species
such as N. ocellatus, orthonotus etc.
With these large species I use a single male with three or four females, changing the
male if possible every 15 or 20 days. This is for two reasons; to avoid inbreeding as
much as possible and for the wear and tear of the male in his tireless reproductive
desire. it is remarkable how much semen the males produce to be able to fertilise so
many eggs in such a relatively short time.
If the females have been emptied of eggs and I have free aquariums available, I take
them out to try to help them recover, which normally happens except for some
species such as N. Furzeri, which rarely fill up with eggs again.
When choosing the specimens to reproduce, I take care that they do not present
malformations or have striking color differences compared to the rest to prevent them
from evolving towards a color different from their type locality.
There are species or populations of Nothobranchius whose variability is minimal
even if their natural biotopes are several kilometres apart, but there are others such
as N. hassoni whose variability can be great in captivity, possibly because this
species is still at an early stage in its evolution. As an example, from the Bunkeya
population I have specimens with a red stripe on the tail, orange, intermediate or
practically non-existent. In this case, and given that in their wild biotope the same
thing seems to happen, it would be best not to opt for a particular colour that we like
more than another, trying reproduce a varied group of them if possible.
Of course and as a code of ethics, it should be prohibited for any Nothobranchius
keepers to reproduce specimens from different populations even if they look the
same. There is no accountability to anyone but we should be extremely meticulous
on this point because, fortunately, with the possibility of exchange, purchase or sale,
a species or population can be totally undermined.
Finally, the bowl where the eggs have been deposited is removed every seven to ten
days. There can always be eggs in the peat that has been spilled on the ground, but
I have found that their viability is low, much lower than those deposited in the glass
bowl, so I discard that part of the peat.
HATCHING OF THE FRY
Nothobranchius have the advantage that, being annual fish, their birth can be
somewhat planned, allowing for the possibility of scheduling around potential
absences due to vacations or other reasons.
For the hatching of the fry, I use small aquariums of one or two liters, depending on
the amount of peat, filling them before adding the eggs, making sure they contain
approximately one to one and a half centimeters thick layer of peat added to the
container. If it is less, I add boiled peat or coconut fiber until reaching that thickness.
The eggs tend to sink to the bottom, but to prevent any from floating with the peat
that does not sink, I stir everything. There may still be some peat floating, which I
remove with a small net, then, I add half a dissolved oxygen tablet to the water,
stirring everything again.
The addition of oxygen has been used by me for many years to prevent belly sliders
with a success rate very close to one hundred percent. Only in eggs whose fry are
already extremely weakened either because too much time has passed incubating
or, on the contrary, because it is too early to wet them, this method may not be
successful.
The cause for which fry can stay in belly slider has always been a matter of
discussion, and although there are several studies on the subject, there is no fixed
rule, with storage and incubation of the eggs likely having a very direct impact.
However, in practice, this explanation falls short. Faced with the risk of potentially
losing a species (one of the reasons mentioned earlier regarding the meticulousness
involved in breeding Nothobranchius), I always use the addition of oxygen.
The fully formed embryos in the egg wait for a reasonable period of time before they
hatch, after which they gradually weaken. This period is likely conditioned by the
specific conditions of each species in its natural habitat, but generally, it is not very
long, although they may eventually hatch, they are practically unrecoverable fry.
Depending on the maturity state of the embryos, hatching can occur anywhere from
one hour after wetting the eggs to 24 hours later, rarely longer except in isolated
cases.
Once they have hatched, I leave them in the same container for one or two days,
adding some newly hatched brine shrimp if they are large enough to capture them, or
infusoria.
After that time, I transfer the fry to another container of the same size, preferably with
the same water they hatched in. If the water is becoming polluted, I place them in
aged water from another functioning aquarium.
The method for transferring them is simply pouring the water with the fry directly into
the other container or scooping them up with a small net and adding them to the
water. If there are unhatched eggs, the peat can be collected to dry it out for another
month.
There is an important objection at this point because sometimes in the bag, the eggs
ready to hatch are uniform, but in other cases, there may be eggs ready to be
wetted, others completely clear, and others intermediate. In my experience, these
latter ones can be lost when drying them again. Ideally, we should wet only the eggs
that we see ready to hatch, with the consequent extra time that entails.
SEXING
Male Nothobranchius typically start to colorize approximately one month after birth.
Generally, the process is progressive, with each individual reaching its own
coloration around one and a half to two months. There may be some exceptions
where specimens initially show aberrant coloring compared to their typical coloration
but eventually display their normal coloration. Experts in genetics undoubtedly have
the explanation for this question.
The male-to-female ratio, known as the "sex ratio," can vary among species, but
generally it is acceptable for maintaining that species or population. However, there
are occasions when we lose a species because all or almost all individuals despite
being numerous, are either all males or all females, or there is a highly imbalanced
ratio. This happens quite frequently without a clear reason. There are several
assumptions, all unconfirmed, and one of them, perhaps the most plausible in my
opinion is that the worse the water quality, the more females appear because a
greater quantity of eggs is needed to perpetuate the species.
In response to that issue, there is a theory that has been the subject of some studies
which I personally also explored some time ago It involves attempting to ensure a
pair by isolating fry in pairs from a very young age. In that case, they would be male
and female.
According to my experience with this practice, I was able to confirm that indeed the
result is positive in the majority of cases, although not in all, approximately in 70
percent. This percentage is more or less consistent with the results of other
experts.The condition is to separate them from a very young age (3 to 7 days). I am
unaware of the definitive mechanism for why this occurs. Apart from unproven
scientific considerations such as possibly hormones released in the container, etc.,
it's as if the fish tell each other, "there are only two of us, or we are pair , or the
continuity of the species ends." It's a very "cinematic" assumption, but perhaps not
too far from reality.
EGG STORAGE
Once the eggs have dried, on top of newspaper, store them in plastic bags, and
inspect them after 7 to 10 days to check if they are fertilized. With N. ocellatus, it
takes more days because eggs that seem viable at 10 days can spoil later
Once the number of fertile eggs is confirmed, they are permanently stored in bags,
labeling the contents and marking the approximate number of eggs it contains. I
don't seal the bag so that I can examine it if necessary during incubation.
The moisture level of the peat (or coconut fiber in my case) theoretically should be
related to the amount of time that passes in their habitats until the next rainy season,
although one must consider the complexity of the Nothobranchius cycle and how
variable these parameters can be. Theoretically, the longer the period without rain,
the more the soil dries out. However, at least in captivity, I haven't noticed significant
differences between keeping it more or less humid.
The incubation temperature of the eggs is the same maintained in my fish room,
which fluctuates between 20 degrees on the coldest days of winter and 28 degrees
in summer. At this temperature, most of the eggs typically remain unembryonated
during the winter, and I have the problem that many species are ready to hatch within
a short period, usually between March and May. As a result, I have many empty
tanks in winter and many full ones in summer.
If the temperature were more uniform, around 23 to 24 degrees, the eggs would
follow their standard incubation time for each species and would be better
distributed. However, I prefer to maintain this management plan due to the reasons
already mentioned, to seek a balance between their life in nature and practicality.
There are people who 'force' incubation by placing the eggs in incubators or even
keeping them continuously in water without a drying period, which I don't see any
utility in, except for impatience when dealing with only a few species. Additionally, I
have found that with those methods, the possibility of the fry not reaching swimming
stage is considerably higher..
It's important to keep a comprehensive record of the eggs stored, including their
origin and the exact species and population names to avoid errors and completely
distort the data when distributing them later on. We can easily turn a N.ugandensis
Giligili into a N.ugandensis Butiaba or worse cases, which can persist and spread in
the hobby if not careful.
DISEASES
In the section on diseases, one stands out notably, and that is Oodinium
(Pisciodinium pillularis). It is often said that there is no good Nothobranchius without
Oodinium, but my motto is different, and it is that to breed a good Nothobranchius, it
must be free of Oodinium.
It is a parasite that is latent in many aquariums and manifests itself when there are
favorable conditions such as overpopulation, accumulation of organic remains, etc.
The best way to eradicate it is prevention, but if it appears it is very important to
detect it in the first few days.
I conduct almost daily visual inspections, and if I detect its presence I treat it
immediately with a specific medication for protozoa and doubling the dissolved salt
quantity. If I normally maintain all Nothobranchius with a salt ratio of one tablespoon
per 8 liters, as a treatment for Oodinium, I double that amount.
The method is risky, and it requires close monitoring of the fish and not exceeding
the time because they can die, but it's the only way I've seen to treat advanced
Oodinium.
The most effective medication is probably copper-based, but I don't use it because
these fish are extremely sensitive to this element, and precise measurements are
necessary to avoid exceeding the dose.
Fortunately, it is rare for newly hatched fry to suffer from an Oodinium attack
although it has also happened to me and in this case it is almost fatal if the parasite
is already widespread.
Increasing the temperature, keeping them in darkness... are some recommendations
that many hobbyists have suggested for eradicating Oodinium, but I have not put
them into practice due to the difficulty of doing so in a large installation.
Currently (2024), it seems that it is not a worrying disease, but not long ago there
was a quite extensive infection in the hobby, an intestinal parasite, Glugea sp, which
was much more deadly than Oodinium and for which there is no cure. I know of
specialists and enthusiasts of Nothobranchius who chose to get rid of all the fish and
start from scratch because it is also extremely contagious. It was probably introduced
into the hobby through wild captures, but fortunately, it seems to be in remission
currently.
The disease of white spot (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis) is rare in Nothobranchius and
has the same consideration and treatment as Oodinium.
Not exactly a disease, but intestinal blockage is not rare in these fish due to their
voracious eating habits.
FINAL CONSIDERATIONS
The ability to have and maintain this wonderful world of Nothobranchius in captivity
would not be possible without the numerous collecting trips to their places of origin,
with the added scientific value provided by many people over the years, whom I
won't list here to avoid forgetting anyone.
These trips, in addition to feeding the hobby, contribute with great scientific value, as
I mentioned, to understand how these fish live and evolve in nature, with discoveries
of new species, etc
At this point, however I also want to comment that although taxonomy is absolutely
essential, in my opinion too many species are described that morphologically present
few differences. Molecularly, these differences may be more notable, but they are
constantly evolving, and it is very difficult to establish boundaries. Interestingly, in
Nothobranchius, there are no described subspecies as in other groups of animals
such as insects and birds, which in principle and in some cases should be the
precursor to being considered a new species.
There's a phrase that my old Natural Sciences teacher used to say many years ago,
and I embraced it immediately: 'If animals knew the lengths humans go to in order to
name them, they would die of laughter.'
Nature is an interconnected system where living beings and their environment
interact in a single balance, and their evolutionary process is continuous, making it
truly difficult to establish separation boundaries.
It's very likely that there are undiscovered species of Nothobranchius, and each
collecting trip is an opportunity to find another wonder of this spectacular and
interesting Genus of fish. To contribute to their maintenance in the hobby, the
'Nothobranchius Maintenance Group' (N.M.G.) was created, which is still active
today.
There are many possible studies to be carried out either through this group or any
other initiative, such as explaining the breeding behaviors in captivity, determining
sexes, and in nature, gaining a better understanding of the mobility that takes place
in different species due to natural conditions.
CURRENTLY RECOGNIZED SPECIES
Nothobranchius albertinensis
Nothobranchius albimarginatus
Nothobranchius angelae
Nothobranchius annectens
Nothobranchius attenboroughi
Nothobranchius balamaensis
Nothobranchius bellemansi
Nothobranchius bojiensis
Nothobranchius boklundi
Nothobranchius brieni
Nothobranchius capriviensis
Nothobranchius cardinalis
Nothobranchius chochamandai
Nothobranchius cooperi
Nothobranchius derhami
Nothobranchius ditte
Nothobranchius eggersi
Nothobranchius elongatus
Nothobranchius fasciatus
Nothobranchius elucens
Nothobranchius flagrans
Nothobranchius flammicomantis
Nothobranchius foerschi
Nothobranchius furzeri
Nothobranchius fuscotaeniatus
Nothobranchius geminus
Nothobranchius guentheri
Nothobranchius hassoni
Nothobranchius hengstleri
Nothobranchius hoermanni
Nothobranchius insularis
Nothobranchius interruptus
Nothobranchius itigiensis
Nothobranchius ivanovae
Nothobranchius janpapi
Nothobranchius jubbi
Nothobranchius kadleci
Nothobranchius kafuensis
Nothobranchius kardashevi
Nothobranchius kilomberoensis
Nothobranchius kirki
Nothobranchius korthausae
Nothobranchius krammeri
Nothobranchius krysanovi
Nothobranchius kwalensis
Nothobranchius lourensi
Nothobranchius lucius
Nothobranchius luekei
Nothobranchius makondorum
Nothobranchius malaissei
Nothobranchius matanduensis
Nothobranchius melanospilus
Nothobranchius microlepis
Nothobranchius milvertzi
Nothobranchius mkuziensis
Nothobranchius moameensis
Nothobranchius neumanni
Nothobranchius niassa
Nothobranchius nikiforovi
Nothobranchius nubaensis
Nothobranchius occultus
Nothobranchius ocellatus
Nothobranchius oestergaardi
Nothobranchius orthonotus
Nothobranchius ottoschmidti
Nothobranchius palmqvisti
Nothobranchius patrizii
Nothobranchius pienaari
Nothobranchius polli
Nothobranchius rachovii
Nothobranchius prognathus
Nothobranchius robustus
Nothobranchius rosenstocki
Nothobranchius rubripinnis
Nothobranchius rubroreticulatus
Nothobranchius rungwaensis
Nothobranchius ruudwildekampi
Nothobranchius sagittae
Nothobranchius sainthousei
Nothobranchius seegersi
Nothobranchius serengetiensis
Nothobranchius skeltoni
Nothobranchius sonjae
Nothobranchius steinforti
Nothobranchius streltsovi
Nothobranchius symoensi
Nothobranchius taeniopygus
Nothobranchius taiti
Nothobranchius torgashevi
Nothobranchius ugandensis
Nothobranchius usanguensis
Nothobranchius venustus
Nothobranchius virgatus
Nothobranchius vosseleri
Nothobranchius wattersi
Nothobranchius willerti
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